Single / Double row timing chain.
#1
Single / Double row timing chain.
I have a 1983 Toyota 22r. I am putting a new timing cover / timing set / oil pump on it. I've found two options for the same price of $92.
One option is the 83-84 timing set with timing cover, and oil pump, with single row chain and plastic guide rails.
Or the 79-82 timing set with timing cover, and oil pump and double row chain and steel guide rails.
Will the 79-82 dual row complete timing set, AND oil pump bolt right up?
Is there a noticable loss in power running a dual chain?
If the power loss is noticable, does anyone know where I can buy just the steel guide rails for a single row chain to fix an '83 22r?
One option is the 83-84 timing set with timing cover, and oil pump, with single row chain and plastic guide rails.
Or the 79-82 timing set with timing cover, and oil pump and double row chain and steel guide rails.
Will the 79-82 dual row complete timing set, AND oil pump bolt right up?
Is there a noticable loss in power running a dual chain?
If the power loss is noticable, does anyone know where I can buy just the steel guide rails for a single row chain to fix an '83 22r?
Last edited by Unsung; 06-10-2013 at 01:47 PM.
#2
Registered User
Which do you have? If you have single row, going to double row is a modification, and you'll need to find a timing cover built for a dual row chain, and bigger spline.
I doubt you'd really notice the power difference, but you'd notice how much longer your chain lasts with a dual row.
But it's not a matter of one or the other. They aren't compatible without modifications to your truck. First find out which you have (pull the valve cover and look. 99% chance it's a single row), then either buy what you have, or research what it takes to swap to the other.
I doubt you'd really notice the power difference, but you'd notice how much longer your chain lasts with a dual row.
But it's not a matter of one or the other. They aren't compatible without modifications to your truck. First find out which you have (pull the valve cover and look. 99% chance it's a single row), then either buy what you have, or research what it takes to swap to the other.
#4
The kit comes with the timing cover. And from what I've read, the timing covers from 79-84 have the same part number. So it's more a question of sprockets and oil pump sliding onto the crankshaft, and camshaft.
And I already have mine torn down, it's a single row with plastic guides.
I'm looking up more stuff. Oil pump is the same from 79-84 as well, so timing cover and oil pump are fine. Camshaft is apparently the same from 81-95, so no problem there. 81-95 crankshaft is also the same. I guess my only concern would be chain clearance where it runs through the front of the cylinder head, but I just went out and looked at mine, and there's more than enough room. I guess I've answered my own question, unless someone can tell me otherwise?
And I already have mine torn down, it's a single row with plastic guides.
I'm looking up more stuff. Oil pump is the same from 79-84 as well, so timing cover and oil pump are fine. Camshaft is apparently the same from 81-95, so no problem there. 81-95 crankshaft is also the same. I guess my only concern would be chain clearance where it runs through the front of the cylinder head, but I just went out and looked at mine, and there's more than enough room. I guess I've answered my own question, unless someone can tell me otherwise?
Last edited by Unsung; 06-10-2013 at 02:35 PM.
#6
Well as far as someone swapping in a newer engine, I'd say that's not the case. I counted the chain links, which came out to 96, the '85+ engines have 86(?) I believe, which would make this the 81-84 22r (unless I magically have a 20r, either way, still good).
I'm pretty much replacing everything on the front of this engine. I've already bought a new water pump, and radiator hoses, fan clutch, belts, and I'm going to buy a brand spanking new '90 toyota v6 auto radiator for it since it's about twice as thick, and mine is stopped up. I'd like to go ahead and pull the engine, and rebuild it. But I want to put a 20r head and intake on it, and I've yet to find one nearby, so I guess this will do for now.
I'm pretty much replacing everything on the front of this engine. I've already bought a new water pump, and radiator hoses, fan clutch, belts, and I'm going to buy a brand spanking new '90 toyota v6 auto radiator for it since it's about twice as thick, and mine is stopped up. I'd like to go ahead and pull the engine, and rebuild it. But I want to put a 20r head and intake on it, and I've yet to find one nearby, so I guess this will do for now.
Last edited by Unsung; 06-10-2013 at 03:25 PM.
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I have a 1983 Toyota 22r. I am putting a new timing cover / timing set / oil pump on it. I've found two options for the same price of $92.
One option is the 83-84 timing set with timing cover, and oil pump, with single row chain and plastic guide rails.
Or the 79-82 timing set with timing cover, and oil pump and double row chain and steel guide rails.
Will the 79-82 dual row complete timing set, AND oil pump bolt right up?
Is there a noticable loss in power running a dual chain?
If the power loss is noticable, does anyone know where I can buy just the steel guide rails for a single row chain to fix an '83 22r?
One option is the 83-84 timing set with timing cover, and oil pump, with single row chain and plastic guide rails.
Or the 79-82 timing set with timing cover, and oil pump and double row chain and steel guide rails.
Will the 79-82 dual row complete timing set, AND oil pump bolt right up?
Is there a noticable loss in power running a dual chain?
If the power loss is noticable, does anyone know where I can buy just the steel guide rails for a single row chain to fix an '83 22r?
yes .. it will fit .. you just need the dual row oil pump gear
and the dual comes with steel guides .. it's a no brainer .. DO IT !!
I have done lots of them
.
Last edited by slacker; 06-10-2013 at 04:50 PM.
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#10
I found the shorter oil pump drive gear from LCE. They're sure proud of those little things at $32.95. Tomorrow I'll check my local people and see if they don't have a replacement one cheaper. What year should I get one for? Just any year 79-82 with dual chain?
#11
I'm not sure if all 1983 22R's are the same, but there was a factory dual row on my 83 when I rebuilt it. I know Toyota had the tendency to do some half year changes; however I'm not sure it this is the case when it comes to 1983 timing chains. You might want to verify that it was originally a single row. Also, Slacker is right, all you need is the oil drive gear - I think Marlin Crawler has it too, but LCE is you best bet. Other than that, a dual row kit is all you need.
#12
I'll be glad to get this thing back together. It started with a simple overheating problem. The clutch fan was wobbly so I replaced it, and that didn't fix it. So I replaced the thermostat, that didn't fix it either. I was sure it wasn't the head gasket because it doesn't lose any water, and the exhaust was clear. So I put a water pump on it, and someone, who shall remain nameless tighten the water pump bolts too tight and two of them twisted off. They didn't bother mentioning it to me. I had to discover it myself after I put the rest of it back together and cranked it, drove it to find out it was still running hot, got back and notice it slightly leaking around the water pump. One bolt looked loose so I went to tight it and found it was just sitting in the hole. I believe my radiator is clogged. I tore it all down to find those twisted off water pump bolts stuck in the timing cover. Decided to go ahead and replace timing cover and everything I can get to.
The only thing I can do to the truck to any effect as far as finding out why it's overheating, is spray the radiator with the hose while it's running to cool it down. I tried this before replacing the water pump but it didn't work. It won't run hot sitting and idling. But I can warm it to 190-195, where it'll sit all day if it's parked, THEN drive it down the road and it'll get up to 210 after around 3 miles, and still climbing. I've replaced everything coolant relevant except for this radiator so far. I've got an '85 toyota sitting in my shed, I'm going to pull it's radiator and stick on there and see if that fixes it, and if so I was going to buy me a v6 auto radiator, since it bolts in the same but it's twice as thick. If not... head gasket... and the case of the non-disappearing coolant.
The only thing I can do to the truck to any effect as far as finding out why it's overheating, is spray the radiator with the hose while it's running to cool it down. I tried this before replacing the water pump but it didn't work. It won't run hot sitting and idling. But I can warm it to 190-195, where it'll sit all day if it's parked, THEN drive it down the road and it'll get up to 210 after around 3 miles, and still climbing. I've replaced everything coolant relevant except for this radiator so far. I've got an '85 toyota sitting in my shed, I'm going to pull it's radiator and stick on there and see if that fixes it, and if so I was going to buy me a v6 auto radiator, since it bolts in the same but it's twice as thick. If not... head gasket... and the case of the non-disappearing coolant.
Last edited by Unsung; 06-10-2013 at 06:58 PM.
#14
Registered User
I had the same overheating problem in my 84. I put a 93 v6 radiator with tranny cooler fittings in. I used the tranny cooler and a oil filter remote cooler adapter from lce and made an oil cooler. It stopped the problem, but if I didn't have a body lift, that radiator would have hung two inches below my frame.
#15
I had the same overheating problem in my 84. I put a 93 v6 radiator with tranny cooler fittings in. I used the tranny cooler and a oil filter remote cooler adapter from lce and made an oil cooler. It stopped the problem, but if I didn't have a body lift, that radiator would have hung two inches below my frame.
#16
Registered User
after I did the body lift, I filled the space between the body and the frame with expanded steel. I actually turned out really nice and provided more surface area to cool.
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