rust windsheild... need help!
#1
rust windsheild... need help!
Hi All,
I've had two rust spots around the edges of my windshield for a year or two now. They are very small and I kept after them with POR15, but, just recently, they produced a crack in my windshield.
I can't have the windshield replaced until the rust is replaced. This truck is my baby and I try to get everything done 100% right on the truck. I don't care how much it costs. (well, to an extent, of course... I'm not Donald Trump.)
So, question, does anyone have a recommendation for a shop to do this in the Massachusetts area? Also, I was reading on the following thread that you can buy the piece of metal that the windshield sits in from a junk yard. Is this worth doing?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/w...-steve-194734/
Also, what's the RIGHT way to get this done? I want to quiz the shop about how they plan to do this work, before I sign on for the deal. I want to make sure they do it the right(aka...expensive) way. I've had work done half-assed before, and it turns into a complete mess 2 months down the road. Need to get this done right the first time around.
Thanks!
I've had two rust spots around the edges of my windshield for a year or two now. They are very small and I kept after them with POR15, but, just recently, they produced a crack in my windshield.
I can't have the windshield replaced until the rust is replaced. This truck is my baby and I try to get everything done 100% right on the truck. I don't care how much it costs. (well, to an extent, of course... I'm not Donald Trump.)
So, question, does anyone have a recommendation for a shop to do this in the Massachusetts area? Also, I was reading on the following thread that you can buy the piece of metal that the windshield sits in from a junk yard. Is this worth doing?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/w...-steve-194734/
Also, what's the RIGHT way to get this done? I want to quiz the shop about how they plan to do this work, before I sign on for the deal. I want to make sure they do it the right(aka...expensive) way. I've had work done half-assed before, and it turns into a complete mess 2 months down the road. Need to get this done right the first time around.
Thanks!
Last edited by tspouse; 04-02-2013 at 06:32 PM.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
You have to replace the roof skin, and supports. Basicly this means cutting the whole roof off and welding on a new one, which is a pain and difficult to imposible to reseal the inside of the welds since most places don't have a tank big enough to dip a whole passenger cabin. The best they can do is try to fog the inside with a zinc coating, but there is still no way to remove the slag so it'll just rust from the inside out eventually.
They can and probably will do it in small sections depending on the rust penetration/extend.But you can ask for a whole new roof assembly if you want.
For future reference when the windshield leaks or there is rust in the windshield channels the glass needs to come out, all the glue needs removed along with any flaking rust and then you can use a rust converter. Which should stop it in it's tracks, they even have a warranty IIRC but it has tobe done right and well and they'll know the difference if you just slapped it on from the outside
The body shop might go this route also, again depends how bad it's gotten andthey won't know which they are going to do untill they get in there or you insist on panels/patches, new roof, or "just make it right".
Kevin, The expanding/exfoliating rust will cause pressure which likely caused a stress crack. Have a look around a local junk pile sometime and you'll notice the expansion caused by rust, it's not any different that "paint bubbling".
They can and probably will do it in small sections depending on the rust penetration/extend.But you can ask for a whole new roof assembly if you want.
For future reference when the windshield leaks or there is rust in the windshield channels the glass needs to come out, all the glue needs removed along with any flaking rust and then you can use a rust converter. Which should stop it in it's tracks, they even have a warranty IIRC but it has tobe done right and well and they'll know the difference if you just slapped it on from the outside
The body shop might go this route also, again depends how bad it's gotten andthey won't know which they are going to do untill they get in there or you insist on panels/patches, new roof, or "just make it right".
Kevin, The expanding/exfoliating rust will cause pressure which likely caused a stress crack. Have a look around a local junk pile sometime and you'll notice the expansion caused by rust, it's not any different that "paint bubbling".
#4
Thanks guys!
I'll try to remember to take some pics tonight. Two tiny rust spots were all that were needed to crack the windshield. It's on an 84 4runner with a back that pops off.
CO 94 PU - Is this what you are referring to as a "rust converter":
http://www.gemplers.com/tech/mremovefaq.htm
Never used this stuff before. Pretty interesting.
I'll try to remember to take some pics tonight. Two tiny rust spots were all that were needed to crack the windshield. It's on an 84 4runner with a back that pops off.
CO 94 PU - Is this what you are referring to as a "rust converter":
http://www.gemplers.com/tech/mremovefaq.htm
Never used this stuff before. Pretty interesting.
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#11
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i'm with crazy paint. you can also just cut out the rust using a dremel tool type thing. cant remember what the stuff is called, but its an aluminum paste you can use for small repairs. its like bondo but is a lot stronger. sand, paint, replace windshield
#12
Slacker has nice pics on that site. Informative to see what it looks like when the window is taken out.
#13
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whats cool about the aluminum stuff is you can sand it. so you may not need to "hammer the dolly". just put it on a little thick and sand it to the shape you want
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