cleaning water and oil ports
11-19-2013, 08:33 AM
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cleaning water and oil ports
I need a little advice on how I can get my water and oil ports clean on the block I know to spray air in the head holes but the holes that go down to the bottom of block I look in with a flash light and I can see stuff down in there is there a way to clean this with the block in the truck
11-19-2013, 08:41 AM
#2
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Take off the oil pan.
Then bring the block into a machine shop for cleaning and rebuilding
Seriously though, be careful what you clean on the block. Any fine particles or large chunks you knock out are going right down into your bearings, oil pan, getting picked up by the pickup tube and circulating around the engine as soon as you start it back up.
I'm not going to tell you, really, to get a rebuild...but clearly your engine could use one.
Maybe just stop worrying about this engine, get it back together, and find yourself a used motor and start learning to rebuild it. That or start saving money.
Then bring the block into a machine shop for cleaning and rebuilding
Seriously though, be careful what you clean on the block. Any fine particles or large chunks you knock out are going right down into your bearings, oil pan, getting picked up by the pickup tube and circulating around the engine as soon as you start it back up.
I'm not going to tell you, really, to get a rebuild...but clearly your engine could use one.
Maybe just stop worrying about this engine, get it back together, and find yourself a used motor and start learning to rebuild it. That or start saving money.
11-20-2013, 08:20 AM
#3
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I've had my buddy at the machine shop in Napa hot tank a bunch of stuff (not aluminum parts!). They sell brush kits for cleaning out the various ports in an engine, but I've never used them.
11-20-2013, 09:13 AM
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The block will stay in the truck I'm gonna just try something the best thing I can think of to get as much out as possible but Ted at engine buildr told me to not even worry about it unless there was just tons of stuff in there so will see
11-20-2013, 09:19 AM
#5
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The water and oil transfer ports really shouldn't require any prep. Obviously the oil port and front at chain area need to be kept from having a bunch of garbage go down in them though.
You should Tap the head bolt holes though until the head bolts thread all the way in with little to no resistance. A few of them can get quite gummed up with carbon and will give a false torque value!
Blow them out with shop air.
You should Tap the head bolt holes though until the head bolts thread all the way in with little to no resistance. A few of them can get quite gummed up with carbon and will give a false torque value!
Blow them out with shop air.
Last edited by SoCal4Running; 11-20-2013 at 09:21 AM.
11-20-2013, 11:49 AM
#6
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NEVER EVER run a tap into a bolt hole. They are for making holes....not cleaning them. You want a thread chaser. It will clean with out damaging the threads. Using a tap can ruin the hole. Make torque readings skew.
If you use a tap instead of a threadchaser...you are either too cheap to buy one...uninformed (you are now) or a knucklehead.
So you are doing the head gasket on your 22re. You just trying to get the block ready correct?
green scotchbrite on block deck to clean up. spray some pb blaster down bolt holes....let it soak. blow them out with air (safty glasses) then run a thread chaser down the holes. spray again...blow them out again. should be good to go.
If you use a tap instead of a threadchaser...you are either too cheap to buy one...uninformed (you are now) or a knucklehead.
So you are doing the head gasket on your 22re. You just trying to get the block ready correct?
green scotchbrite on block deck to clean up. spray some pb blaster down bolt holes....let it soak. blow them out with air (safty glasses) then run a thread chaser down the holes. spray again...blow them out again. should be good to go.
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11-20-2013, 12:56 PM
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11-20-2013, 02:21 PM
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eah I'm doing all the timing stuff water oil pump hoses belts head is being rebuilt with 261 cam pretty much everything will be new but the block, really right now I'm trying to find the best way to get the carbon ring at the very top of bore gone that carbon is tuff stuff
11-23-2013, 04:34 PM
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Ok well I found a great way to clean the block surface and the Pistons I found some 3m disks for my die grinder they are for aluminum and are purple they don't scratch the block and it works like a dream I have every thing nice and shiny now well now I want to ask I have the Toyota fipg and is that good to use for the block where they tell you to put the sealer for the timing.cover block and head surface and do I just put it on the block or do I need to put it on both sides
11-23-2013, 05:03 PM
#11
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I used fipg, and only where the FSM said to put it. From what I remember they lay out the process. Put down the sealer, then the gasket, then the head.
I have no experience with this so don't worry too much, since it seems like people here have done more or less what you did...but when I was in NAPA asking what to used to clean the carbon off the piston heads, there was a mechanic at the counter who said "don't clean them. Every time I've cleaned piston heads off, I end up having to replace the bearings, because all that fine abrasive material gets down into them"...
I have no experience with this so don't worry too much, since it seems like people here have done more or less what you did...but when I was in NAPA asking what to used to clean the carbon off the piston heads, there was a mechanic at the counter who said "don't clean them. Every time I've cleaned piston heads off, I end up having to replace the bearings, because all that fine abrasive material gets down into them"...
11-23-2013, 05:13 PM
#12
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Your doing good....keep pics coming. Might be able to spot stuff for ya. I have used those discs to clean the deck too. Vacuum everyting too....if you got a crack and crevice tool for a shop vac...works great to get little stuff.
Do it just like the book says. Get stuck on anything...just post....
I demand more pics though. Plus you will want them later....man trophies.
Do it just like the book says. Get stuck on anything...just post....
I demand more pics though. Plus you will want them later....man trophies.
11-23-2013, 06:10 PM
#14
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Im sure you will be fine. Mine popped a headgasket too. Oil water mixed. It was nasty. My bearings are fine.
Whats bad is when its driven for way way to long like that....or it sits with water in the oil forever before head comes off.
Your gonna change that oil after you break in the new cam. Then change it again after 50 miles. That will get the gunk out. Take out oil drain plug...and when tc is off...spray bunch of degreaser in front of pan and let it drain out pan.
Whats bad is when its driven for way way to long like that....or it sits with water in the oil forever before head comes off.
Your gonna change that oil after you break in the new cam. Then change it again after 50 miles. That will get the gunk out. Take out oil drain plug...and when tc is off...spray bunch of degreaser in front of pan and let it drain out pan.
11-23-2013, 09:42 PM
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Yeah my pan is off right now I'll just spray all under the bottom real good with cleaner I'm pretty much waiting to bolt up the machine shop is taking forever with my head I'm painting and cleaning a lot of stuff right now while I wait thanks for the help and I'm gonna put up some pics of what I've done I just hope this thing will start when I'm done lol this is my first major job I've done I'm nervous but I've been so particular of what I'm doing so hopefully I'll be fine
11-24-2013, 08:27 AM
#16
you can put some ATF in the cylinders in the mean time and let it sit, it will free up the rings if some of them are a bit stuck and provide extra lubrication on the first start if there is any abrasive material between piston and cylinders. As highlux said, I would change the oil after cam break-in, and then soon again. I would use diesel oil because of the high zinc content for cam break-in. good luck and keep us posted! And don't worry about cleaning the bearings.
11-24-2013, 08:35 AM
#17
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Yeah I didn't have my oil pan off, so I had oil in there when I did the job. I changed the oil after putting it all back together, but before starting it up.
Then after getting it up to operating temp, I adjusted the valves and changed the oil again.
It's one of those things...plenty of people do it, other people swear you shouldn't do it. I just decided to be cautious. Plus it meant less work
Then after getting it up to operating temp, I adjusted the valves and changed the oil again.
It's one of those things...plenty of people do it, other people swear you shouldn't do it. I just decided to be cautious. Plus it meant less work
