Junkers88

Hello folks! First post about my first Toyota pickup.

I'm going to look at a 1981 Longbed SR5, 22r, 5 speed, 4x4 with a sliding rear window this weekend, guy wants 3500$ for it but its got a 22r with 2500 miles on it and is about 99.99999% rust free, Arizona truck it's entire life up until a short while ago when he brought it to New Mexico.

Altight lets get to some Q and A shall we?

I know this thing does not have power steering and from reading the threads here for a couple of days most of you feel that it isn't a requirement if you're not stuck in rocks or running big tires (I plan on staying with 31's for the time being). I'm going to need power steering, I broke both shoulders with the ARMY several years (don't ask how many) ago and they never really healed. So I guess question one is "what year model Toys can I pull the PS stuff off off and swap into my 81?"

Carbs? All I've ever driven, up until I bought a dang 4 runner, were diesels. Even my dedicated off road rig in the form of a 1977 Scout was a factory diesel. With that in mind I'm sure I'm going to have to rebuild or replace the carb eventually. Is this something I can do on a work bench in the garage or would it be better to spend 60$ to get it rebuilt by a pro?

Oh and what are my options as far as fuel injection goes? Do we have to make our own out of the junkyard or is there a bolt on kit?

The shifter in this rig is really sloppy but I read about the Martin Krawler (spelling?) bushing replacement and will go that route. Is the 5 speed a top loader? All I've ever dealt with were T19's so this will be new to me.

Drive train? I've read and been told that the drive trains in these trucks are "bomb proof". How do the Toyota axles/t case etc stack up against the T19/ Dana 300/Dana 44's in the old scouts? I'm not asking to start any huge discussion I just need to know if the Toy gear is as durable (within limits if tire size and driver capability) as the scout stuff I'm used to dealing with.

I guess here I should point out that I'm not planning on building another rock crawler. I'm hoping to keep this one pretty stock for a daily driver and once in a while camping rig. Of course I'll need to drop in a couple of lockers, maybe some armor for the rocks out here...... a few extra lights and maybe an internal cage.......... crap I can already see where this is going.

Interior. Ok the door panels look to be some sort of flat fiber and they are in bad shape. I'm thinking I can cut some out of diamond plate aluminum and avoid the warping problem in the future. Have any of you done something similar? Also the seats are funky and the dash is cracked. I read the thread that included the "dash-cap" but couldn't find any manufacturers information (or maybe I just glossed over it while drooling at the pictures), anyone have info on that cap? The seats are going to HAVE to be replaced. I'd prefer to go back with buckets and have seen the converstion threads here on using other year model seats. Which other year/model/brand is the closest to direct bolt in? For that matter is there a company that will sell a complete replacement interior?

I guess I'll stop for now as I have to run and teach a class.

I'm sorry for all the questions but I'm a little OCD and Anal Retentive and like to know everything I can before I jump into another vehicle.

Last one, are there any problem areas I should look at when I'm inspecting the truck?

Thanks a bunch and I'll check on you guys this after noon

Ricky.

WSUWESTON

As for the carb, a good rebuild kit is around $40 and takes a couple hours. Nothing hard at all. About a year ago I installed a set of civic seats in my 82,
real easy. I did the dashcap a year ago also, it turned out really nice. I have not figured out what I am going to do with my door panels yet, that is a project for this summer. Take a look at my thread "Dave's 82 post" on here for my progress. Good luck and welcome to the 1st gens

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

PS: 79-85 4wd should work
5 Speed: '81 should have the L50 Top shift w/rf1a top shift transfer case--Marlin bushing link about $10--though the L50 transmission could be considered a weak link

Carb: rebuild it yourself, EFI is great but you need a lot to convert, I am looking for a donor truck just so I know I am getting everything if I go that route and can find a good enough deal

Axles: everyone tells me that they are on par with Dana 44's. Only problem I have ever had with Toy axles was sheared Ring Gear ('84 truck with 35's and happened on a hill) you should be good to go with 31's. I would recommend doing the front wheel bearings and knuckle rebuild kit if the condition is in doubt.

Dash Pad: ebay about $65

Door panels: mine were crap too, may go the Diamond plate route too..
As far as a complete interior, have not heard of a source.
I just installed some 93 Acura Integra seats in my '81 and was able to use front inside mount and a factory hole just over from the factory outside mount. Had to drill the back two holes. 84-89 4Runner or truck seats are not quite bolt in but a great addition.

You might want to try to find a Toyota Factory Service Manual, I got lucky and found mine on ebay for about $45, it has helped a lot--much better than a Chiltons or Haynes.

Good luck and post up some pictures if you end up with the truck..

Off Topic: I too am a Army Vet, froze my butt off at Ft. Richardson LRSD 106th MI 6th ID, and A Co, 2/87 Inf 10th Mtn..Good times

Links you might find helpful:
marlin crawler
4x4Wire Toyota FAQ
Roger Brown (4Crawler) has a great website to tool around on

brooklee1000

Axles are comparable to a D44, especially the rear. The birfield (CV) joints on the front have a tendency to blow when lockers, big tires and low range power are applied. The old gear driven t-cases are indestructible, and LOTs of low range gearing available for them. Factory EFI can bolt right onto the existing head you have, but there is one hole you will need to drill and tap to ensure a good intake gasket seal. Sloppiness in tranny shifter? Every one I know of has this loose rubber chicken feel to it. Normal for the older toys. If it shifts fine I wouldn't worry about it. As for overall bomb proofedness, Google "Top Gear killing a toyota" ---- Great video. I too, did the diamond plate door panels, and they look very nice. I highly recommend. You will enjoy your new purchase.

Junkers88

Top Gear Killing a Toyota huh?

Well I watched and was stunned! I've seen some beat up trucks in my time but that thing was a WRECK. And it still drove!!!!!!!!


I think I just found my new brand of survival vehicle.........

loacyota

I had the sloppy shifting when i first bought my 81 yota, actually it was bad enough 2nd gear grinded, I got a new shifter bushing, took 5 minutes to put it in, changed gear oil and put some lucas in the tranny and its been solid.

I have a locker in the front, welded rear and run 33 x 12.5s. and I beat it to death and so far(knock on wood) it holds up. Pretty solid axels.

I got bucket seats off ebay, made 2 pieces of flat stock for the mounts, and welded it all to the frame. Works pretty freaking good.

And like ocdropzone said, do the knuckle rebuild because it probably hasnt been done before, but if your going to do a locker in the front, dont waste time pulling it apart twice, and do it all at the same time.

Junkers88

Yeah I'm planning on changing all the fluids, old habit that hasn't ever failed me, and going with some synthetic although I haven't decided which.

Knuckle rebuild? I'm guessing it's similar to a Dana 44 in that it's just bearings, reces and ball joints? There really isnt much in there is there?

Thanks again.

loacyota

You have to take the 4 wheel drive apart. Get an exploded diagram before you do, it makes it much easier when putting it together. make sure you put the shims on the top and bottom of the knuckles EXACTLY in the same spot. Big, big no no if you dont.

Island_Yota

Im pretty sure you can find all the steering parts off any 79-83 truck with factory power steering, there is also the option of "High steer" or a cheaper route is cross over steering with a newer steering box off an IFS Toyota 4x4(86-88) and a mount kit from Sky Offroad Design as well as most other vendors, High steer or crossover is a MUCH better system than the stock one.

The stock Aisin carb is pretty overcomplicated but when it works it works great, some are just too worn out to rebuild though. A common thing to do is to buy a Weber conversion kit, they go for about $300 shipped, most go with the 32/36 kit including me, boost in power and probably 100x easier to work on than the stock carb, parts are easily available.

You could make a junkyard fuel injection, the Bosch CIS system on an early 80's VW 1.8L motors can be modified to work on a 22R, there is a conversion kit on the web somewhere aswell which includes an injector rail, intake piping and all the other things you would have to fab yourself, I remember it being about $400, but im sure you could get the injector rail made locally at a machine shop and the intake piping fabbed up aswell unless you can do it yourself, basically a CIS system is a mechanical fuel injection, no computer or ecu in the earlier models.. it measures air flow and rpm through the MAF unit at the airbox, really sweet setup, I actually have an 86 Rabbit with the system im talking about.. its excellent. Just another option to carbs and 22RE fuel injection swap.

Shifter bushings from Marlin will work great, everyone I know thats used it say it makes it shift like new.

The axles are definetly strong enough for your needs, and there is alot of aftermarket pieces to make them even tougher for bigger tires (36"+), the transfer case will not let you down and the motor and transmission will rarley ever give you problems unless you neglect them.


As far as I know, no company offers replacement interiors.. ive only ever found the dash pad replacement and floor carpet, other than that you will need to find used stuff. What im going to try and do is find out if newer pickup stuff fits since first gen stuff is really hard to come by. By the looks of it the door panels in base model trucks all the way up to 94 MAY fit, not for sure on this but im going to give it a try...they door handles, locks, and arm rest seem to be in the exact same place on the base models only.. but again not totally sure. Im also going to eventually swap in a set of bucket seats out of an 89-94 SR5 Pickup, they are very comfortable and durable and have tons of adjustments plus if I can find them in blue they will match my interior pretty good.


You will want to check the frame rails for sure, check the floors and windshield frame for rust, check the gas tank/rear shock cross member for rust, check the drive shafts/pinions for play and excessive backlash, bring a magnet and check the body for bondo, check the rad support and such for any signs of a collision or crash(like any other vehicle)..Make sure it shifts into 4wd and doesn't make any nasty noises.. other than that there isn't too much to worry about

WSUWESTON

Rust on the cab floor is VERY common, so check that close.