83

I just ran the ground from my fuel cut solenoid right to the negative battery terminal. We'll see if it fixes my stalling issue. Hasn't warmed up here yet and it seems to only happen to my truck when it's warm.

Subzero2cirb

So i ran a ground from the fuel cut solenoid to the battery, i cut and spliced the white wire before it goes into the plug because it had a frayed area there, is this ok? it seems to hav made no difference. I bought a manual, but it hasnt been any help. It still seems like its losing spark intermittently, or its flooding/or way too lean & its losing ignition sometimes when driving. Also sometimes wen it acts up and i dont engage the clutch and let off the gas, it doesnt buck but it just engine brakes like theres no combustion going on. my mixture screw has never been messed with, it still has the plug over it so i dont think its the mixture. Another thing, ever since it started bucking it seems like its lost some power. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated thx guys

82blueyota

did you splice it on the carb side of the plug or the other the plugs in these older toyotas are crap i have since replace just about all of them.my buddy hade a charginh problem forever and i choped out all the plugs in the charge system and the problem went away.

Robs Toynado

I would check the spark modulator in the distributer. Just an idea. I had this problem once and changed the whole intake and it still did it . Hope this helps.

1981Toy4X4

Hello. I'm not sure if your truck is Fed or Cal equipped. Either way, an earlier post suggested to spray carb cleaner around the carb and intake - this will help you detect a vacuum leak, pay close attention to your EGR valve, spray all around that area. If the rpms increase or the idle smoothes out you should block off (won't pass smog) or replace (will pass smog) the EGR valve. When this component fails your truck will run very inconsistant at both idle and higher rpms. Also, since you rebuilt your carburetor, make sure your float is adjusted properly and you can see the fuel level in the sight glass at the front of your carb. One last thing to check..... If you have the ability to time your truck, make sure that the timing mark is not jumping around at higher rpms. This would indicate alot of play in your distibutor and you may need to replace it. Good luck.

Crazycanadian

Has anyone ever driven the truck with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up?? see what happens when it does start to buck or do you plan on throwing darts at the problem untill you hit something???

jcknthegrn

I think suncomb1 is on the right track. The 1982 2WD pickup I used to own had almost the exact symptoms you describe. The problem turned out to be multiple fractured solder connections on the large mating connector of the emission control module. Remove the module from the truck, disassemble it and remove the circuit board. When you look at the solder connections the problem will be obvious when you wiggle the connector. Resolder all of the connectors pins and you'll be good to go.

83

I just looked at mine over the weekend and it looked fine. Without a magnifying glass, it will still be obvious? Hopefully. That does seem to be a good place to look though. Glad mine was ok, although it's a cheap fix...

jcknthegrn

The fractured solder connections I had did not require magnification. Sorry my suggestion didn't pan out for you. If I happen to come across any other possibilities I'll let you know. Good luck.

83

Oh no, it's cool! My stalling problem turned out to be the fuel cut solenoid, and wiring it directly to the negative battery terminal seems to have fixed it. But I've seen the emissions system soldering advice before and checked mine out this last weekend. The last advice I saw mentioned a magnifying glass though, so I just wanted to be sure. Thanks.

Subzero2cirb

-I spliced the neg. for the FIC solenoid before the plug to eliminate that connection. My yotas got all new charging components ie voltage reg, alternator, battery, wat else?
-To Robs Toynado, yes im thinking its the Distributor or my computer ill be checking the ECM tomorrow if not that ill have the D-strib checked.
-To 1981Toy4x4 im almost positive mine is Fed eqipp'd, ill check the EGR to make sure its not clogged, i cant really do the spray test cuz my air cleaner assembly isnt air tight.
- Another thing, to Everyone about my carb rebuild, My float has not fallen off and Is in the correct position i can see gas a lil above halfway in the glass. Positive its not the carb, a tiny chance of a vac leak. ITs gotta be the Distributor, ECM, a short somewhere, or maybe my coil however it is newer.
-CrazyCanada No its not the fuel pump, mine is newer and if it was going out it would go completely out not this halfass bull. SO Tomorrow im checkin Computer solder joints, and my EGR valve, filter, and vacs

Gov't Mule

Check the gap and overall condition of your magnetic pickup coil. It's located under the rotor inside your distributor and it is adjustable. If memory serves me right, it should have a gap of .004-.006.

Subzero2cirb

So i pulled the computer, and didnt see any broken solder joints, then i pulled my EGR it was completely clogged, unfortunately itdidnt make a difference. Then i put in another distributor and itsstill having the same problem. Any time im accelerating over 20mph, the gas just cuts out and it revs down like theres no gas or no spark. im starting to think its a carb internal. im going to put another coil on, and another carb. Does anyone hav an idea as to wat would make acceleration cut out completely? cuz when it does cut out it doesnteven drop to idleits just gets No Combustion. please help guys, any more ideas would be awsome

Subzero2cirb

I replaced the carb with another, throttle is still completely cuttingout at 35+mph, switched out the coil, same. Then Lashed the valves, ran better till i hit 35, then blup. then i swithced out the fuel pump and its Still doing IT! So ive basically replaced everything i can, but around 35+ mph its still losing all throttle repsonse like its stalling out but it doesnt stall just drops to very low idle. Im ready to sell it, Any ideas anybody?

suncomb1

You need to go over the emission computer / control system as per my earlier reply and get a service manual for your truck. If you can not find a service manual, go to your local Toyota dealer and ask them to copy the pages relating to the emission control system and the electrical section related to emission control wiring. I really believe this is where your problem is based on what you state is happening with your truck. I know you are frustrated, "ready to sell it", but if you take your time going step by step through the emission control system I believe you will find the problem.

Subzero2cirb

I have already bought a manual, and hav been using it. How do you suggest using the manual to read my computer? I think there are devices used to scan the computer, but i hav no idea where to find one or where i can go to hav my computer scanned, if you hav this information please let me know, ill try to read over the ECM section again but i dont think its going to help, because i dont even know if my check engine light works, my truck has had problems but i havent once seen my check engine light on yet. ill read over the computer section again tho

suncomb1

A 1981 Toyota Truck, Fed-California, does not have a check engine light. Start at the beginning of the emission contol section of your service manual and check your PCV valve and just continue on with each component service/ test. Pay attention to the vacuum hose diagrams in the service book. If a component has been removed or by-passed, note what the component's function was and write it down. After you have checked all components, replace any defective components, vacuum hoses, etc. check the wiring to each component and to the emission control computer with a meter to make sure there are no broken / defective wires or connectors. Clean all connecters with electrical contact cleaner. Let us know what you have when you have completed the above.

Subzero2cirb

Thank you suncomb, I'll be going through that section for this next week and will get back to you when im done or come into a problem, i hav a feeling it has something to do with the vaccum lines or a wiring ecm issue seeing as how ive replaced everything else Haha...

tinkertoy

Clogged exhaust somewhere. Will Idle good, No go on high RPMS. Nobodys mentioned that. Old school trick is to clog exhaust with potato, rammed in with a broom handle. So if you have a converter, or collapsed muffler. Thats the results. Drives mechanics crazy.

adamsbro1

Probably stupid but I had similar problems with my 82 and I am still convinced it was just a coincidence but in the bottom of the air cleaner ther is a spot for two vaccum lines on mine I found there is one that came from a piece next to the carb on passenger side when I put this back into the bottom of the air cleaner I haven't had the problem again and I drive 30 miles to work one way at least five days a week been going on 3 months now without the problem???