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Hi everyone,
When I was changing the oil on my 79 4x4 I noticed that the oil pan seemed to flex a bit much, and it seems to have a good coating of rust on it (after only 37,000 miles!) .
So given the fact that the pan is under $100.00, I figured that I would try to replace it myself. How hard is the pan to change? Should I get all new bolts? Is there anything that needs to be removed/moved in order to replace the pan? Is there a bolt pattern that I should watch when bolting the pan on? Should the new gasket be glued to the new pan first?
Sorry for all the questions, I just have never done a job like this before.
Get a service manual, preferably an FSM(factory service manual). It will describe the process.
No, don't get new bolts. No, don't glue the gasket. You should follow the typical bolt pattern...basically if you just don't do them one after another right next to each other, you'll be fine. Do a criss-cross pattern. Take the old one off and let the oil drain (after actually draining the majority of the oil of course) for a few hours or overnight. Then make sure to clean the block surface very very well of all oil.
Yes the axle will get in the way but you don't need to remove it or anything else to get the pan off/on. If it's like my 83, you'll get a cork gasket, and it will leak again very soon. It's just not a good design. Apparently you can put a later model pan on and they don't have that ridge going along the top surface. I guess you can just use RTV sealant with them instead of a gasket and they don't leak, but with our trucks, a leaky pan is just the way it is.
So what years should I look for in an oil pan? Would a 22R pan fit a 20R motor? How exactly does the axle get in the way of doing this job? On a scale of 1-10, how hard is this job?
go to a toyota dealership and buy some FIPG, or Form IN Place Gasket, as toyota calls it. It is essentially toyota branded RTV. the stuff is awesome.
changing the oil pan is not hard, the worst part is being patient for all the oil to drain from the open bottom end so that it doesn't foul the new gasket before it has time to set. Let it sit overnight as 83 recommended.
couldn't say for sure on the 22r pan fitting or not. Got a spare. you anywhere near Salt Lake?
It gets in the way the same as anything gets in the way on a little truck like a Toyota. Small spaces. You can do it fine, it's just in the way of it a bit. You'll find out as soon as you pull it. You just need to (I think) slide it back once it's unbolted to get it clear of the axle.
Yea on my 79 it just slide right back over the axle no problem. Its a really easy job as long as you dont mind getting oil all over yourself but thats half the fun anyway.
I would try that FIPG that abe suggested i ive heard some good stuff about it and i just put a new cork one on mine and its right back to leaking all over my driveway.
Our pans have a raised ridge along them. The later model pans do not. The later model pans are meant to be sealed with FIPG, whereas ours (with the raised ridge) are meant to be sealed with the cork gasket, which leaks. If you try to use FIPG with the raised ridge pans, it will likely leak, but probably not any worse than the cork gasket would. If you really know how to use the FIPG, you could probably get a better seal. I used it, and mine leaks...but not too bad. I'm pretty sure it was slacker on this site who told me about the ridge vs. non-ridge pans. I think any later 80's IFS truck will work, but do your own research before spending money, as I haven't personally verified this yet. One of those things that's kinda low on my priority list right now, seeing as my transfer case is in pieces.
I did the pan gasket on my 82, it was not even leaking but replaced it for another reason(makin sure no metel was in there, there was not) it was very straight forward and not hard, hardest part was doing it upside down not on jacks or a lift, and prying it off once the bolts were off lol. mine used cork and I used rtv black and no leaks.
Our pans have a raised ridge along them. The later model pans do not. The later model pans are meant to be sealed with FIPG, whereas ours (with the raised ridge) are meant to be sealed with the cork gasket, which leaks. If you try to use FIPG with the raised ridge pans, it will likely leak, but probably not any worse than the cork gasket would. If you really know how to use the FIPG, you could probably get a better seal. I used it, and mine leaks...but not too bad. I'm pretty sure it was slacker on this site who told me about the ridge vs. non-ridge pans. I think any later 80's IFS truck will work, but do your own research before spending money, as I haven't personally verified this yet. One of those things that's kinda low on my priority list right now, seeing as my transfer case is in pieces.
See from what i remember is that my pan had a raised ridge on it to. I didnt know there was a difference ill have to look into this.
If I had taken a photo I'd post it, but I didn't...maybe someday when I finally get around to either replacing the pan with another, or at least seeing if I can get a better seal, I'll take a photo.
No matter which way I twist/turn/tilt it will not come out from under the engine. It’s undone and off - but just resting on the axle trapped twixt mounting brackets.
🤪🤪🤪🤪
Im just stoopid. I just jacked up the front - using my winch mount - thus increasing the gap twixt axle and engine! Duh! BUT it was parsing out on this thread that gave me the inspiration! Thanks for being here, a great sounding board and thinking space! 😎
Last edited by Rusty Bob; 07-03-2023 at 01:53 PM.
Reason: I’m m stoopid!
Having retrieved the oil pan I can now see the gasket. And it seems to be a 1/8” thick by 1” wide rubber gasket. The pan has a ridge, and and FIPG was used on the pan surface only. The oil pan has never leaked. Obvs this gasket is now toast - but does anyone know who makes this type of gasket for a 79 20R?
Last edited by Rusty Bob; 07-05-2023 at 10:45 AM.
Reason: New info
The oil pan mating surface has a ridge. So, thin bead (way less than an 1/8”) of Toyota’s black “Seal Packing 103 (FIPG)” on either side of the ridge and around the bolt holes. Stick the cork gasket to that, and make the same pattern on top of it. Carefully locate the pan into position without squidging up your FIPG beads too much, get a couple bolts in place to hold it then criss-cross all the other (clean!) bolts to torque - only about 5-7lbs. I did not retorque! All is good!
05-19-2010, 05:23 PM
