Bingle

So, it sat for 13 years?

The blow by is likely the rings. You should be able to chirp the tires in 4th with 5.29s and 31's. Try sea foaming the engine then check the compression. Leak down test would be a really good idea as well. Post up resuts and we'll try to get you heading down the right path. What do the spark plugs look like?

84dreamyoda

Here's what all the plugs looked like last week when I pulled them.

84dreamyoda

Ya I need to try a leak down test actually seems the better route. I'll post of results. Anyone know if a shop will do a leak down test pretty cheaply?

Bingle

Some auto parts stores will loan or rent some specialty tools like that. I don't know about that one but wouldn't hurt to ask around.

84dreamyoda

Can anyone identify this pulley and or ps pump? It is making noise and wobbling a bit. Has a little bit of in and out motion when I push/pull with hands. I went to carquest and they pulled a complete pulley apparently for this 22r but is was way smaller and different. He mentioned that the ps pump on my truck may not be the oem version or that the last owner could of did a trail fix with a different pulley.

84dreamyoda

We'll after googling some images the pulley I have looks right. Guy at carquest must have had the wrong part. Mugged I gotta try to get a new one or a bearing and pull it and try to press a new bearing in. Will search to see if I can do this as I don't have some tools I'm thinking I will need. I have no press, no bench vice and no pulley puller or torch haha.

84dreamyoda

Ok we'll I solved the hesitation issue and the blow by issue. :spaced:

It was the pcv valve grommet on the valve cover. I naught a new pcv valve and grommet last week and installed the new pcv valve in the parking lot at the auto parts store, but did not do the grommet.

So I was working on the truck today:
-Changed oil

-Sea foamed crankcase and fuel tank

-Checked front diff fluid

-Checked rear drum brake pads

-Took apart all the electrical connections under the hood and cleaned them out with cleaner.

-Undid all the old taping on the wires and cleaned and retaped

-Fitted new connections on wires that needed it

-Checked all my vacuum lines and ports

-Put a cleanable metal type k&n filter on the front breather port on the valve cover

-Then I played with the throttle linkage and noticed blow by and oil spray which I deemed way too much. This led me to pull the pcv valve while the truck was warm and idling, it sprayed a moderate amount of oil out the hole. I then put my finger over the end of the pcv valve and could feel the manifold vacuum working right. Then I noticed that the pcv valve when I put it back in wobbled and had lots of play up and down. I found the pcv valve I replaced and tried it in the grommet and it also had some play. Located the new grommet that I forgot to install and noticed it was very rubbery and the hole that the pcv valve pushes in was quite a bit smaller then the old grommet. I tried to take the old grommet out and it was brittle and broke in a few pieces and even some fell down in to the top end. Luckily the baffle under the grommet ogle caught it and I fished it out with needle nose pliers. Put the new grommet in and the new pcv valve and went for a long drive all over and never had one problem and it runs like a raped chicken.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

That looks like the correct pulley. The factory part number is 44311-20010 - Vane pump pulley. If you ever need to get some parts diagrams or part numbers, check out http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/default.aspx

But I wouldn't order from them since the majority of the parts are not available.

You don't need any special tools to get that pulley off either. Just leave the belt on with the truck in gear so you can break the bolt loose (17 or 19mm wrench). Then loosen the tensioner and remove the belt to free up the pulley. PAY ATTENTION WHEN YOU REMOVE THE PULLEY - the pulley is keyed and there is a small key bit that sits in a notch on the vane pump shaft. YOU WILL LOSE IT IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL! Without the key bit, your pulley will spin freely (perhaps it is missing already thus causing your wobble). The pulley should come off with minimal effort and no tools.

84dreamyoda

Thx for the info Kawa.

84dreamyoda

btw, doing a break job and checking front diff and driveline. here is some videos. Seems odd to me if anyone can tell if somethings wrong thanks.

Both hubs locked, on stands, 2wheel and in 5th gear
[YOUTUBE]rT5t7h9bkPw[/YOUTUBE]

Hubs locked, 5th gear and in 4H
[YOUTUBE]HRVWL0p_wOI[/YOUTUBE]

Extra vid from underneath
[YOUTUBE]bAawquI3Gpo[/YOUTUBE]

84dreamyoda

Pulled the valve cover off to adjust valves and "right stuff" the half moons cause they didn't get silicone whoever put it on last and were leaking.

Heres a video of the timing chain area and play etc.
[YOUTUBE]D1J5-18e0xU[/YOUTUBE]

84dreamyoda

Timing chain seemed fine to aswell as everything else so it's all put together and running good. Set the valves to 7 and 11

84dreamyoda

Just to update everyone. Truck is running super good. I dropped the fuel tank and it was clean as could be be. I installed a new breather hose from the port on the valve cover closet to the oil filler and ran it to the air filter spot. That hose was really old, dried and cracked causing oil to spill out over the valve cover. I then was got "another" new pcv grommet because the one I had on cracked badly. Not that those two things are fixed the truck seems to run really good without any hesitation. I also adjusted the e-choke and it seems to work good on cold starts.

Im working on paint for the exterior now. I got one fender primed and the hood painted. Tomorrow should get the other fender primed, and hopefully start somewhere else on the truck too.