84dreamyoda

Truck sat for nearly 13 years with only 10 to 15k on a rebuilt Moro. I know the bottom was done not sure in the head but I can find out.


I have a 83 4x4 with a weber 32/36. It runs great for the most part, idles fine, I have done trips over the coastal pass from the Willamette valley a couple hundred miles without problem. It does seem to lack a little on long hill climbs (expected with this motor) but the problem I have is when I floor the gas and once it opens the second Venturi it has a weird hesitation or like it is flooding or wanting to stall, but then open up after a few seconds and runs fine. I fill like when the second Venturii opened it might be flooding it out or something but I am not sure. It feels like it just bogs down for a a second and loses some ooompf before it clears up and goes on. I have put a holley 1-4 adjustable fuel regulator with gauge on it and have it set to 2.5 psi. The problem existed before the regulator was installed though. I took the carb off and opened it up, inspected and cleaned it up. Resealed it nice and good to ensure no vacuum leaks and it still does it. Is this problem just the nature of the carb or is something needed to correct it. I feel like it robs the full potential of the power it could have. Any help, suggestions or ideas would be appreciated thanks. The motor was freshly rebuilt 10k miles ago and it has good compression and run like a champ. I also have an offenhauser 2bbl intake on it and 2x1/4" exhaust with a cat. 5.29 gears with 31 inch tires.

plowzilla

From what I read, the weber likes 3.5 to 4 psi.

Bingle

Single or dual plane Offy manifold? (mostly for curiosity sake, I had the dual back in the day)

Do you have the hesitation off the line (idle to mid throttle, first venturi)?
is it idle to wide open? or cruise to wide open? or all of the above? It is not normal for these carbs, should be snappy and responsive if tuned and jetted properly. Sounds like accel pump jet or diaphram problem (likely) or secondary jet (less likely). Timing might be a contributing factor but something isn't right.

If you ease to full throttle and it doesn't stumble, accel pump/jet is (almost surely) the problem. it makes up for the rapid change in air quantity when the butterfly opens quickly and dumps "extra" fuel in. Either you're dumping too much and the engine chokes on it, or it's not getting enough so it has to wait for the secondary jets to catch up to the higher flow.
New weber or old?

84dreamyoda

I am leaning towards the accelerator pump. It only seem to do it when I wide open it from idle or wide open it from a cruise. I can ease in to it just fine. Although, I did do some messing around my engine last night and noticed a few electrical connection that were either fully broken or hanging on one strand of wire and so I spliced them up better and I think one of those or possible both could of been causing the problem as it did not do the hesitation on some driveway test. I will take it for a spin in a bit today and see what happens and report back. Thanks for all the help.

I'll post pictures of the wires I fixed just for reference later too.

84dreamyoda

Oh and its the dual port intake

Bingle

Once you get the bugs worked out the dual plane with the weber is a sweet setup. I probably shouldn't have ever gotten rid of it but the dcoe's seemed so cool (and they are). I used to get way better gas milage though.

If one of the wires was the electric choke on the carb, that could cause you some issues, also if your carb has the idle cut off silinoid (sp) and the wire was intermitent, but that would just kill the engine at idle, so not likely. Happy to help any way I can.

I can't imagine 5.29 gears and 31's. Mine's "just right" with 35's and those gears and the engine's rapped out pretty good doing 75mph. Yours has to scream doing 60. Are you going to regear? or get bigger tires? Your mpg would go way up going to bigger tires or smaller gears (4.88's and 33's if I had it to do over again). NWOR headder? I've had mine about 14 years and it's still in really good shape and hasn't leaked once.

Keep them first gens rollin'!

84dreamyoda

Update: I took it for a nice spin and it still has the problem when trying to dump the gas pedal to the floor. When I got home I shut the truck off and popped the hood and then I pulled on the linkage under the accelerator pump and heard a distinct vacuum release and the sound of fuel releasing out. Not sure if this is normal or a sign that its bad or if it doesn't say anything at all about the accelerator pumps condition. I get paid Friday so I'll really be digging more into the truck this weekend.

Also, after posting the video on the other thread I spent 3 hours cleaning the engine and components up to help locate some leaks. The power steering leak seem to be coming out of the steering box where the shaft from the steering wheel enters it. I hope this is a cheap and easy fix. I also noticed my little oil leaks, which is not much are from the half moons, I am guessing the builder did not use silicone on them like we all know we need too. Anyway, wanted to update btw I do plan on getting bigger tires too, probably 35 or 36's once I get some money saved up. I also need to figure out what I need to fit them. It has NWOR 3" springs in the rear and 3.5" v8 springs in the front not sure if that is enough or if I might have to a slight body lift which I don't mind because it makes working on things easier sometimes. Maybe a lift shackle kit would also work.

84dreamyoda

heres a link to some of my pictures form the last couple weeks since I have owned the truck out wheeling it a little.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jhudnal...7635260202507/

Bingle

The carb was looking pretty crusty before you cleaned it up, nice work. Let it warm up and pop off the air cleaner and make sure the choke is opening up all the way. Shut the truck off and look down the venturis as you throttle to wide open. There should be a "squirt" noise and you should be able to see some fuel squirt or dribble into the venturis. Keep me posted and I'll try to help get this figured out.
Link to a really good 32/36 tuning guide:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...b-info-241818/

On a side note, I don't know where you are in Oregon, but I have a set of 35x12.5R15 pro comp xterrains with ~3/32nds tread left in the middle, more on edges. Still in good shape, never a flat, I'd let go cheap. They'd get you by for at least a year if you're interested you can pm me and we'll se what we can make happen.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Pump the brakes for a second here before you go taking things apart... I'm going on the assumption that this is a mechanical fuel pump. I had a similar problem when my old fuel pump was going bad. I would hit the secondaries and the pump would take a minute to catch up in pressure. I replaced the fuel pump and all was good (I assume that it had worn diaphragms). Combined with the fact that you are running 2.5 PSI, this might be your problem. I would start with the easy adjustment first; bump the fuel pressure up to 3.5 PSI and see what happens. The reason being is that if you are running a constant 2.5PSI to the carb (when it really wants around 3.5 but every Weber is slightly different) and then stomp on the pedal, you create a deficit of fuel pressure - after all, the mechanical fuel pump volume and pressure increases with RPM so naturally there is a very slight lag that you shouldn't even notice - I'm thinking that this could be the problem. Does it stumble when you just accelerate nice and easy into the secondary? If it doesn't then I would say your problem lies within your fuel delivery. I would try the fuel pressure regulator first, then look at replacing that fuel pump.

84dreamyoda

Ya it doesn't do it when I smooth into it only when flooring it. The problem existed before I added the fuel pressure regulator, it one of the reasons I added it because I thought the stock mechanical pump might of been putting to much pressure and keeping the needle valve open (from what read I guess it has happens on some webers) I will try adjusting the regulator to 3.5 and 4 and then run it without the fpr just to cover the basis.

Also when I cleaned the carb up and put it back on a few days ago I did notice the "squirt" of gas into the venturis I could see it actually cascade into the primary upon pressing the pedal or using the throttle linkage. If I only opened the throttle to have the primary open I would also see fuel be put into and sit on top of the round disc in the secondary Venturi. I thought that was odd as you would think it would only pull fuel when it opened. I'll double check that today and report back.

And yes i would be interested in those 35's I'm in the salem area, but I always need a road trip excuse. Lol.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

That being the case, make sure that the the secondary idle and main jets are seated properly. Sounds like your secondary jets could have a slight leak causing a slight flooding condition when the secondary engages which probably still occurs on easy acceleration but you just can't notice it as much Excessive fuel pressure (which is what you would have had prior to installing the FPR) can cause jets to unseat and result in problems like this.

Bingle

What kawa said.
He's "in the thick of it" with these carbs. I haven't had one for about 8 or 9 years so things are a little fuzzy, like what psi they like, my dcoe's only like 1.5psi. Will send pics tonight of the tires, see if we can work something out.

84dreamyoda

I think I may of solved the problem. I took the air cleaner off the carb and was checking out the operation of the carb and looking down at the throttle plates etc. and noticed that when I floored it from the throttle linkage it did not have any hesitation. My motor was rebuilt Approximately 10k miles ago. The previous owner bought it from Stuarts auto supply a well established auto store here in the city. I have a decent amount of blow by on this motor. It will push the dip stick out some on high RPM's and the valve cover breather on the front of the motor near the grill side spits out quite a bit of fumes, mostly very faint whitish color. I know the 22r series motors are expected to have blow by even when new so I don't think it's a problem, however the vent tube I mentioned above was routed in the air cleaner housing, which I know lots of people run this way. The vent releases those gasses and some oil residue into the carb, it's not pouring lots of oil residue, but a steady supply of the fumes (which is probably oil smoke and maybe fuel vapors, I think this is why it was ran this way to get the extra vapors into the combustion cycle or recycle them) however I think it's too much for my carb and how it is setup or something. I put the air cleaner back on and left the vent breather to atmosphere and not in the air cleaner housing and took it for a spin. It ran great and didn't have any hesitation and I could even chirp the tires shifting from second to third and even third to fourth (never could before) it seems to have a lot more quick throttle oooompf now. Of course I will do some more drives the way I have it now to verify and once I know for sure I'll let it be known here.

Also my old 84 22r I had a weber and instead of routing that breather into the air cleaner it was just capped at the valve cover with a filter like a k&n type looking one and it never had this hesitation problem on it. Although it did have a bunch of vacuum problems. I never got around to messing around on the carb on that old truck so this is all fairly foreign to me. Anyway thanks for all the help and have a good night.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

If you have enough crankcase pressure to blow out your dipstick then you have a whole other issue. I had a lot of blow by on my 22R prior to rebuilding it and it was no where near enough to blow out my dipstick. You can really abuse a 22R and still have it run well. If you only have 15,000 miles on a rebuild and it has as much blow by as you say it does then I would say that it was not a very good rebuild. I rebuilt a 22R for a friend of mine a while back that has at least 50,000 miles of pure torture on it and it doesn't have any loss of compression, no blow by and no burning oil.

How much oil are you burning between oil changes or adding oil? Is your PCV valve functioning properly?

84dreamyoda

Put a new pcv valve on a week ago the metal norm type. It doesn't burn oil at all I can go 3k on the oil and not need to top off at all.

84dreamyoda

Also I would like to note. The truck sat for almost 13 years. I wonder if the piston rings could have rusted or corroded up and they are not expanding and sealing like they should. Maybe and engine cleaner would help break up the ring corrosion. Not sure just a shot in the dark I guess.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

That would be something worth mentioning in the first post

84dreamyoda

Ya you're right I totally forgot to mention it. I'll edit it in.

84dreamyoda

Going to do a compression check today I hope. I dont think it has low compression, but better to just check it's easy. Just need to get my hands on a gauge.