22R stumbling idle, dies when coasting to a stop
05-28-2009, 09:29 AM
#1
22R stumbling idle, dies when coasting to a stop
so the 22R in my '81 is starting to run like your basic crap
Symptoms:
-periodically (not consistent) will die when coasting to a stop
-RPM's slightly erratic (400-600rpm range) when attempting to keep idle at 2K rpms...If idle kept at 2300+, no issues
-issues are not consistent if truck is cold or warm, choke turns off after a couple of minutes of warming
under acceleration truck has normal amount of power, no stumbling
Truck was doing this prior to the following parts replacement;
-new fuel pump
-ran Sea Foam (seemed to have helped for a few days)
-new plugs (correct gap), wires, distributor cap and rotor
-new fuel filter
-new air filter
I don't have my FSM (loaned out)
what I think it could be:
-throttle positioner
-PCV valve
-mixture control valve
-bad gas cap
-plugged filter in EGR vacuum modulator
-maybe time to rebuild the carb
-->have not dropped the tank to check the fuel pick up
any advice is appreciated...need to try to get this thing running good for the 2nd annual Oregon YT get together in a few weeks
Symptoms:
-periodically (not consistent) will die when coasting to a stop
-RPM's slightly erratic (400-600rpm range) when attempting to keep idle at 2K rpms...If idle kept at 2300+, no issues
-issues are not consistent if truck is cold or warm, choke turns off after a couple of minutes of warming
under acceleration truck has normal amount of power, no stumbling
Truck was doing this prior to the following parts replacement;
-new fuel pump
-ran Sea Foam (seemed to have helped for a few days)
-new plugs (correct gap), wires, distributor cap and rotor
-new fuel filter
-new air filter
I don't have my FSM (loaned out)
what I think it could be:
-throttle positioner
-PCV valve
-mixture control valve
-bad gas cap
-plugged filter in EGR vacuum modulator
-maybe time to rebuild the carb
-->have not dropped the tank to check the fuel pick up
any advice is appreciated...need to try to get this thing running good for the 2nd annual Oregon YT get together in a few weeks
05-28-2009, 01:56 PM
#3
Registered User
I'm just flipping through the FSM for an '83...but it also mentions: spark plugs/wires, ignition, the obvious vacuum leaks (pcv, egr, mc, hac or manifold), valve clearance, idle speed, slow jet clogged, idle mixture, fuel cut solenoid, fast idle speed incorrect, choke, hai faulty.
I'm guessing you know off the top of your head which of those you know aren't the problem. I'm thinking all of this is what I have to check to find my stalling problem, too..
I'm guessing you know off the top of your head which of those you know aren't the problem. I'm thinking all of this is what I have to check to find my stalling problem, too..
05-28-2009, 03:32 PM
#4
Registered User
My truck does it in the cold with the Weber, carb gets iced up, chokes.. dies, no EGR setup.. if I start it, shut it off for 30 seconds so the carb warms up its fine for the rest of the day. Kinda funny, not funny when your trying to stop and the truck shuts off, no power brakes!
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02-14-2011, 08:30 PM
#8
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check your fuel lines possibly, i had a few that were really rotten so they worked fine when it was running but i lost fuel when it was shut off, so it's possible you have a bad line that is giving you fuel when the rpm is higher but when it isn't as high some gas is leaking out.
Also i had this happen but it was cause of my choke, it had stuck so i turned the idle down really far and it idled normal then my choke became unstuck and my truck died whenever i rolled up to a stop.
so i would
1. look over your fuel lines/ fuel filter
2. check idle screw just cause
3. vacuum lines
4. air cleaner
5. spark plug gaps, wires, dist cap, timing
Also i had this happen but it was cause of my choke, it had stuck so i turned the idle down really far and it idled normal then my choke became unstuck and my truck died whenever i rolled up to a stop.
so i would
1. look over your fuel lines/ fuel filter
2. check idle screw just cause
3. vacuum lines
4. air cleaner
5. spark plug gaps, wires, dist cap, timing
03-27-2011, 10:18 PM
#9
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Ok...I know the answer to this issue for many of you, I know it worked for me.
Look by the petals on the driver side of the vehicle. There is a brown and green box. Which has a wiring harness on it, prob 1.5 inches long. This is where the issue lies. Try moving is back and forth while warming up, and your truck will stay running instead of dying when at idle. Try bracing the harness with something, just to add tension. I did this and drove my truck for 3 years like that.
The reason I know this trick is from my old man, he showed it to me, he ownes and 81 22r 2wd since 81. We've done plenty of work on the 22r together and he's a carb fanatic. I'm going to try and pry much of that carb info from him and I'll pass it on for sure to everyone. Try
Look by the petals on the driver side of the vehicle. There is a brown and green box. Which has a wiring harness on it, prob 1.5 inches long. This is where the issue lies. Try moving is back and forth while warming up, and your truck will stay running instead of dying when at idle. Try bracing the harness with something, just to add tension. I did this and drove my truck for 3 years like that.
The reason I know this trick is from my old man, he showed it to me, he ownes and 81 22r 2wd since 81. We've done plenty of work on the 22r together and he's a carb fanatic. I'm going to try and pry much of that carb info from him and I'll pass it on for sure to everyone. Try
05-07-2011, 10:54 AM
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ok so all these answers sound good, but my 82 22r 4x has a replaced carb,fuel pump,new filters,plug wires,exhaust manifold,and i am at a loss. I bought it new and have 208,000 .for the last two years it will run great and i'll either make a short pit stop and it want stay running, but will restart each time, or it is running great and down the road it just starts bucking very hard. i let off on the gas and it smooths out , but I have to play with the gas on and off for a few miles and then it will just start running smooth again? Very frustrating, and three auto fix its can't find a problem. any new ideas?
Last edited by spnomore; 05-07-2011 at 10:55 AM.
05-07-2011, 11:12 AM
#12
Registered User
I had similar symptoms when I first limped home my 82. After every attempt to get it corrected I finally read the fuel cut off solenoid could be bad. I ran the white wire to the ground on the battery and the thing ran and idled perfect ever since.
05-08-2011, 05:11 PM
#13
absolutely man, that fuel shut off solenoid is the ticket. you can get one that stays open all the time. but also keep in mind that the emissions box that was mentioned previously may be messed up a bit so jerry rigging that solenoid may be what you have to do. Further more, try adjusting the fuel mixture, i know you have probably done it or whatever but try screwing it in all the way, and come out 3 full turns start the truck and make minor adjustments as necessary. as in screwing it in a bit to get it at a weak idle then backing it out to perfection.
07-14-2011, 09:36 AM
#14
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Green Box question
Are you talking about the box with alot of wires running into iy like a male plug. What does it do anyway. I am having the same problems. Runs for days fine then goes haywire. It is driving me nuts because I cannot locate the problem 1979 toyota 20R SR5
Ok...I know the answer to this issue for many of you, I know it worked for me.
Look by the petals on the driver side of the vehicle. There is a brown and green box. Which has a wiring harness on it, prob 1.5 inches long. This is where the issue lies. Try moving is back and forth while warming up, and your truck will stay running instead of dying when at idle. Try bracing the harness with something, just to add tension. I did this and drove my truck for 3 years like that.
The reason I know this trick is from my old man, he showed it to me, he ownes and 81 22r 2wd since 81. We've done plenty of work on the 22r together and he's a carb fanatic. I'm going to try and pry much of that carb info from him and I'll pass it on for sure to everyone. Try
Look by the petals on the driver side of the vehicle. There is a brown and green box. Which has a wiring harness on it, prob 1.5 inches long. This is where the issue lies. Try moving is back and forth while warming up, and your truck will stay running instead of dying when at idle. Try bracing the harness with something, just to add tension. I did this and drove my truck for 3 years like that.
The reason I know this trick is from my old man, he showed it to me, he ownes and 81 22r 2wd since 81. We've done plenty of work on the 22r together and he's a carb fanatic. I'm going to try and pry much of that carb info from him and I'll pass it on for sure to everyone. Try
Last edited by kbjuan; 07-14-2011 at 09:37 AM.
09-27-2011, 04:20 AM
#17
Registered User
Well of your engine is dieing under deceleration its most likely the isle cut solenoid...its supposed to slow the rate of fuel under deceleration to keep popping and backfiring to a minimum....just saying...im going through the same issues
11-02-2018, 11:34 PM
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22R carbed,eratic idle,cold & hot differences in behavior,dies at stops
If you've thrown every part u could think of at your ignition and fuel system,checked your timing marks,thrown a kit at the carb,went through your vaccum hoses,coil,fuel pump,and your left scratching your head I've got the solution.passenger side, just behind the batt.&relaybox,there's a two piece component with vacuum hoses(3)& two harness plugs(green&blue).Replace this and all your woes will be absolved.Im certified tech.with an associates from UTI & I had access to an entire salvage yard for parts,and I was just about to throw in the towel and scrap my yoda when I stumbled upon a forum where they mention the part I described,but gave the wrong location.I never thought such a small trivial part could cause so many symptoms across a broad range of systems,it's not ur carb,not your coil not ur pump not your temp sensor,not your cold or hot idle, not your slipped or broken timing,not your vaccum system or your ,electrical system, not a bad brake booster, It's not your filter or your valve lash.its the little two piece bracket bolted to the wheel well with one bolt & a two prong round green plug ,just behind the battery and fuse box on the passenger side.plugged the new one in while it was running and had instant dramatic affect.I had to turn down the idle and fuel mixture
