oicacid

Hello, the profile pick is the truck I'm talking about.

Its a good lil truck that does fine on the city roads, stop and go, off roading (haven't done any dead man climbs) but still she goes.
The problem arrives when going up hill on a highway, any type of uphill and I can feel the engine momentarily sputter at speeds of 45 to 55 just a stutter that you can only feel barely shortly after no throttle response. My foot will be left on the accelerator and the truck will not respond in rpm climb, it stays at the rpms when it stopped but will not move up. To get it to work I take it out of gear, let rpms drop to 1000 approx. then go to another gear one of low rpms and she may or may not sputter out like that, still she just ends up put putting up the mountain which is great and all but now what its suppose to be like.


I've already asked three mechanics, the last one I felt like he was just pointing out parts to replace and yeah lol.

Here is what I've done.
Distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs = new
Fuel pump, fuel filter, newly rebuilt carb
newly rebuilt top end, at 160k, its not at 200lk
alternator, battery, tires = new
Just timed her perfect, 8 degrees at 850 rpm



Tomorrow I will be trying out turning the carburetor around, and ensuring a tight seal on my air intake housing, I'm sick of taking her off thats why she is not 100% tight.

Extra details on the fuel pump.
I've replaced it twice now, because after towing it home, checking the fuel system first at the carb, found that to be working went to the fuel pump which turned out to be bad. Being a Brand new Napa Auto Part, with lifetime warranty, make sure you have the box. It seemed the pump would catch if enough pressure was put on it to then pump air but other times it wouldn't catch on the bolt inside - fuel pump would miss fire I guess
Again tonight I'm looking into higher quality fuel pump just going to return the napa one. Any suggestions that others have done?


Any help or dialogue would be greatly appreciated.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

How do you turn a carb around? linkage etc would be on the wrong side...

oicacid

I read that somewhere on this site, would be a suggestion to fix over flow into the intake. I didn't bother btw, just spitting out ideas at this point because Aside from getting a new motor (and that one is great) dunno.

I did find out it is geared out in the back diff at 4:10 I think its
put, its suppose to be the stock gears in the rear diff any ideas on gearing it out to get better preformance?

oicacid

status update: keeping the thread alive.

The b terminal wire for the alternator blew again, today installing the third alternator this truck has seen. I think the IC regulator blew as well because now its not charging. The IC was brand new as well when I had issues with the previous alternator so I am stuck with a truck thats not charging, blowing alternators, sputters uphill at high speeds and it pulls left haha.
good times
if any of these problems seem familar input would be great. At this point I'm thinking of going with the mechanics idea of putting in a chevy one wire alternator and calling her good.

suncomb1

Installing a Chevy single wire alternator is okay but my guess is that you have a wiring problem somewhere. The odds of blowwing three alternators is pretty high. You really need to check your wiring because you could blow a Chevy alternator as well.

oicacid

status update:

So I really did check my wiring after new alt and IC reg were installed. I found 7 exposed hot wires near the body within the dash. An additional two more wires underneath the passenger side seat were had their copper exposed, all of which I either clipped or taped or did both.
The Charge light has remained on, still need to solve this.
Today I took it to smog check in California and the Hydrocarbons were near 200 ppm at 2000 rpms. It sucks really because the vacuum setup was messed with and I am stumbling through the books diagram and the diagram under the hood. Essentially doing a full smog overhaul minus the replacing of parts.
The mechanic said this Truck will be resurrected if I can get the smog system fully functional. Also said to retard the timing down to 6 degrees bring it back he'll smog check it, hopefully after it passes said to bump the timing back up to 10 to have better power.
Hopefully this vacuum overhaul will correct the sputter, and hopefully I found all the shorts, still need the charge light off though.
Detailed pictures of the wiring and vacuum setup soon.
Take care

suncomb1

The charge light issue could be the relay, the diode or wiring if the IC regulator and alternator are new.

oicacid

Thank you for all the help.
Like I said before its a 82 all original and the whole stuttering out seems to be fixed for now. It happens after an hour of driving, the throttle will cut out a tad then moments later have no response at all even with foot fully pressing down on the accelerator. I switch gears, let the rpms drop and the truck will pull or not pull either way I find a spot eventually at 45 mph and low rpms like 1700.
It is such an issue gosh, the truck drives fine around but when she hits a highway for an hour or more she doesn't want to put out.

I am searching your website for a good thread on a 1982 toyota front and rear differential exchange. I know they are 4:10's now

oicacid

I need input on what gear ratio to use.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

that is dependent upon tire size.

Lots of info on what gears to use with what tires been covered one or 2 gazillion times but here are the cliff notes:
33s=4.88's
35s=5.29's
37's= 5.29's or 5.71's depending on who you listen to

oicacid

Update, A Factory Service Manual for 1979-1985, she isn't all that complete or great but does detail every factory part on the truck. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
something extra to reference.

she idles high now, and the idle up diaphragm is not adjusting the Throttle cable.

The engine is hard to start and idles high!!!

oicacid

Update: Since she already smogged as of July 8th, I've read on several threads:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...3-only-205721/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-carb-256441/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/weber-one-133331/

just looking for the right one to put on there, I was turned onto the Weber 38
I want something with no emission lines at all, straight suction and a direct fit if possible, I'm new to this process completely. Thank

Heres the link for the weber 38 http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Prod...46-38&CartID=1

oicacid

I never was able to drop the gear ratio, thats a later project I suppose.

83

Also posted here a lot, but there IS NO 1979-1985 FSM. It doesn't exist. That website is a GREAT resource, but I wish they would stop listing that way. The link you posted is for a 1985 truck. Much is the same, but MUCH is different. FSMs are year specific. One for each year. There is no online FSM for anything earlier than 85. If you really want the actual FSM for your truck, you'll need to find a paper copy.

That link you posted is all over this site. It's great for anyone with an 85 and newer truck. It's a good tool for us first gen owners, as long as you realize that there are things that will be wrong in it, because it isn't for our specific year trucks.

oicacid

I hear you I hear you, The link is not for a FSM exact but it will explain in detail each emission route on the truck, like give function diagram and position on engine. I used it to for that specifically.

Like I said though before on tuesday I order a new carburetor, going with the weber 38 unless I am pointed otherwise. Any input on what fits or will fit easy with an adapter and do they usually include an adapter? Can't afford a fuel injection.

83

People seem to use the 36 on these trucks. Unless you're doing a V8 conversion or something. I'm only repeating what I hear on this site and others; I have no personal experience, but everyone says 38 is too big.

The wiring and vacuum/emissions stuff is especially dependent on the year of the truck. Even my 83 FSM shows a few different setups, depending on the model and where you bought your truck, and even with all those, I've seen things that don't agree with what I see in my truck.

But yeah, as long as you use that link knowing things might not be correct, it will be a big help, especially compared to a Haynes or Chilton.

oicacid

Good advice, I think I gathered hints of that just in the discussion of others. So for fuel economy I should go with the weber 36, its cheaper too.

Yeah screw all of that emission control, I would like to know if this new weber will get rid of all those vacuum tubes, the VSV, BVSV, VSV tp, VSV A1-A3. I want it all out and straight fuel and air shoved down the intake.

oicacid

So removing the asian and installing the weber 38, the first cherry for the vehicle. Umm in the picture does anyone know if you can remove the intake manifold stud bolts to fit on the adapter plates with the new carb?