Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

20/22r misfire/sputter?

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Old 04-23-2012, 05:42 AM
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20/22r misfire/sputter?

I have a 20/22r hybrid I just built and it had other problems see. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...ebuild-251071/

now that it is running it has a sputter at idle about every 6 seconds or so, then at cruising speed I would say 1/4 throtle it does it even worse, finaly after cruising a while when I push in on the clutch to down shift it will die. I am assuming all these are conected.

I have not put a timing light on it, I adjusted the timing to where it would not ping on 89 octane.

I still have the Asin carb (22r) I have the Idle jet to 2 and 3/4 turns out any more it wants to flood it any less and it slows down idle. (I tried the method of turning it out till it quits idling up and then adust the idle speed screw down and then back to the mixture............and it flooded it out), I have installed a bigger primary jet 122 from the factory it had a 109 and it was not giving enough fuel accelerating with out the secondary opening it would act as if it was running out of gas, I installed a 170 and it flooded out badly then I tried the 121 and it was alright but seemed to die after a full throtle run I installed the 122 and it does better.

I have new wires but not cap and bug.
Old 04-23-2012, 05:48 AM
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I forgot to mention I rebuilt and cleaned the carb, the float bowl is adjusted to a lil over half in the sight glass and I had to install an electric fuel pump (3-5psi)

it has a remanufactured head, stock valves (I coulnt get any one local to install the larger valves), engn bldr 261 cam. .75mm over pistons if all that matters.

The engine is desmoged. It does still have the cat, and a bad exhuast leak after the cat.

I usually over think things so it is probably some thing simple.
Old 04-23-2012, 06:49 AM
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def check the timing i would have done that first
Old 04-23-2012, 04:30 PM
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sounds like a fuel issue to me .. why an electric pump , celica head ?

have you got the pump as close to the tank as possable ?



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Old 04-24-2012, 04:18 AM
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the head was suppose to be for a pickup with power steering, I just couldn't find a thermostat housing that would clear the fuel pump got tired of looking and bought a electric pump and its with in a foot of the tank. I am running two filters one before the pump and one before the carb I wonder if that could be choking it down? I figure this is the reason every one switches to a weber. Ive done every thing I can think of to do...so now I am coming to you all to get the answer...LOL

Last edited by dirtdobberoffroad; 04-24-2012 at 04:19 AM.
Old 04-30-2012, 05:38 AM
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I figured out part of my problem this weekend..I only worked on it about a hour.... when I installed the electric fuel pump I had two extra lines in the engine compartment that run to the tank the other day I conected them together to keep bugs and dirt out of the lines so last night I pulled the line off and it pushed air out for atleast two minutes!!!!!! I am surprised my tank is not round from all the preasure built up in there....so what that was doing was forcing the fuel into the float bowl making it flood after I drove it for a while and would flood it and kill it when I would push in on the clutch to downshift.

One other thing when the truck is sitting at idle and the choke is open should I see gas dribbling out of the idle jet? I would think it should be like a fog not a dribble. If some one could look down the carburator on there truck and see for me I would appreciate it. What I did was take a flashlight and shine down the primary port and see what the gas looks like coming out of the idle jet/thingy in the small ring. The Idle screw is backed out 2 1/2 turns like the book says for an 82 but I have tuned it around more/less.....
Old 04-30-2012, 05:54 AM
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There are two lines going to the fuel tank for a reason... One is the feed to the fuel pump (this is the "in" line on the fuel pump that it draws fuel from the tank through) and the other is the return line (this line returns excess fuel that the fuel pump is pumping back to the tank so that your don't over work the fuel pump and/or force feed fuel into the motor).

Toyota did certain things for a reason, some you can work around but some you cannot. Toyota put mechanical fuel pumps on the 22R over electric fuel pumps for a reason. I have seen very few people who have converted to an electric fuel pump with no problems.

My suggestion, go back to a mechanical pump and save yourself some headache.
Old 04-30-2012, 06:48 AM
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My plans where to run the mechaical fuel pump but the intake and/or thermostat housing will not let me do that b/c the thermostat housing hits the mechanical fuel pump. 20r head and intake. The fuel pump does not over fill the float bowl or push fuel past the valve in the carb so I dont think that is the problem the float bowl sits at a little above half and fuel never runs out the over flow valve on the carb. And I have three lines that run to my tank one I can blow in and hear the tank expanding I am assuming it it just a vent and the other I can blow in and its like I am pushing air though something but never hear it bubble in the tank the one I have the fuel pump hooked to I can blow threw it and here bubbles in the tank. I guess thats the one I need to pull from?

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Old 04-30-2012, 07:27 AM
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The third one is for the Charcoal canister vapor relief back to the tank. I'm assuming that you have removed the charcoal canisters. I'm not sure which one you have to pull from, but I can tell you how to figure it out... When you drop the tank, on the front end of the tank there is a bolt on fuel port. Unbolt it and pull it out. Your fuel line to the pump should be on the line that has the in-tank filter on it.
Old 05-01-2012, 11:27 AM
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yes the charcoal canister is long gone.
I think I have narrowed it down to a vacuum leak somewhere, even when warm I have to keep the choke closed for it to idle......I plugged the port for the brake booster b/c I am also loosing brake fluid (with none showing under or on wheels.) that I cannot figrue out where it is going but I have good brakes. Plugging that helped a little bit but not that good, I will pick up a new dizy cap and rotor bug this friday and adjust the air gap between the mag and the pickup when I change the cap.

Last edited by dirtdobberoffroad; 05-01-2012 at 11:31 AM.
Old 05-01-2012, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtdobberoffroad
the head was suppose to be for a pickup with power steering, I just couldn't find a thermostat housing that would clear the fuel pump got tired of looking and bought a electric pump and its with in a foot of the tank. I am running two filters one before the pump and one before the carb I wonder if that could be choking it down? I figure this is the reason every one switches to a weber. Ive done every thing I can think of to do...so now I am coming to you all to get the answer...LOL

yes; this will choke it down. Just one one before the carb is plenty. The 22RE uses two but the second one is much larger and runs at a higher pressure.
Old 05-01-2012, 02:30 PM
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After doing a little more "searching" online I think I might have found my problem. the idle fuel cut solenoid...all the symtoms sound like mine!!!!! I will see tonight!
Old 05-01-2012, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtdobberoffroad
After doing a little more "searching" online I think I might have found my problem. the idle fuel cut solenoid...all the symtoms sound like mine!!!!! I will see tonight!
I also think that would be the reason I can adjust the idle mixture screw and nothing happens and the reason the gas dribbles out of the idle venture on the carb instead of fogs out. What do you guys think?
Old 05-02-2012, 05:00 AM
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I think I found the problem I only had about 15 minutes to mess with it lastnight.....I checked the Idle fuel cut solenoid by running a hot and a ground to the plug off the carb and it clicked, so I turned the key on and conected the plug and heard or felt no click but I went ahead and fired it up and with the choke shut it ran good, I unplugged and nothing happened so I ran a hot and ground with the truck running and wow it ran even better, so I reved it a little to open the choke and it ran awsome, unhooked the hot and it started running like it was before, hooked the hot back up and smoothed out.....so yes it was a fuel issue and an electrical issue.

I will replace the factory toyota plug with a weather proof conector. and it should be good...


Thanks every one that has helped so far, I am sure this thread is not dead!!!!!

Last edited by dirtdobberoffroad; 05-02-2012 at 05:01 AM.
Old 05-08-2012, 08:58 AM
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Ok it was not the plug it was the ground wire I traced it back as far as I could and coulnt find a break so I snipped it off about 6" before the new plug installed and ran it to a bolt on the body now it runs/idles great.......

Now my next question it still sputters at rpm, 2000 or so I have no tach so I am guessing.....the vacuum advance on the distributer has two vacuum lines, the one closet to the cap I can pull and hold vacuum, but the one closest to the radiator I can pull vacuum (suck on the line) and it feels like nothing is there, is that correct?
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